In 2010, I packed my nerves, my backpack, and a whole lot of curiosity and flew to India for the first time—alone. I was there to work in a government hospital as a dietitian, but what followed was far more than professional experience. It became a five-week journey across Punjab, Delhi, Karnataka, Kerala, and Telangana, travelling local trains, living with families, and spending every moment I could with the people who called these places home.
Starting in Delhi: Markets, Movement, and My First Train Ride
My adventure began in Delhi, a city that hits you with sound, colour, and energy all at once. I wandered around Connaught Place, letting the chaos settle into excitement, before catching my very first Indian train from New Delhi Railway Station—a journey to Ludhiana that would kick off the most unpredictable five weeks of my life.
Punjab: Family Life, Fireworks & An Orphanage by the Rice Fields
In Ludhiana, I stayed with Ritu and her warm, welcoming family. Before I’d even begun my hospital placement, we drove to the Bethel Children’s Home and Shanti Nagar Project—an orphanage for children whose parents have epilepsy. I’d brought a giant parachute and a collection of musical instruments, imagining big group games, dance sessions, and laughter.
And we did play. We did dance. But on day one, I also got gastroenteritis—a not-so-fun reminder that I hadn’t been drinking filtered water, and there were no other water options at the orphanage. Communication was difficult—no one spoke English—and we were surrounded by rice fields and silence.
But the children were full of joy. Even sick, I felt lucky to be there.
Diwali in Ludhiana: Fire, Flowers & Complete Chaos
Back at Ritu’s house, it was time for Diwali. I joined the family for their traditional Puja ceremony at her h
usband’s workplace. A Hindu priest chanted over trays filled with flowers, rice, ghee, fruits, money, candles, and the thick, sweet smell of incense. I received a bindi, a red bracelet, and a good-luck coin.
Then we headed to the temple for a Tilak, followed by something I’ll never forget—Diwali fireworks on the roof. Firecrackers exploding everywhere. Smoke hanging over the whole city. The sound of celebrations bouncing off every building.
We got into the car and did a city-wide drive through chaos, fireworks erupting in the streets, and ended the night by eating paan.
Chandigarh & The Government Hospital
After visiting the quirky, dreamlike Chandigarh Rock Garden, I began a week of work at a government hospital, observing how the ketogenic diet was used for children with epilepsy. The learning was incredible—but the environment tough. I went to the pharmacy for my gastro issues and was shocked to find I could buy almost anything over the counter. I stocked up on very strong probiotics!
At night, I stayed in the nurses’ accommodation… except there was a wedding happening directly outside, complete with drums, fireworks, and dancing. Sleep? Not a chance.
Before leaving Punjab, a senior dietitian welcomed me into her home and taught me how to wear a sari, wrapping me in six metres of beautiful fabric and endless warmth.
Karnataka: Bollywood Nights & Bangalore Buzz
Next stop: Bangalore. I stayed with a friend’s sister, watched a Bollywood movie in all its glittering glory, and went to a lively carnival. It felt like the perfect halfway reset—colourful, friendly, and bustling.
Kerala: Sleeper Trains, Storms, Rituals & Coconut Flavours
From Bangalore, I boarded a sleeper train to Kannur in Kerala. I spent days exploring beaches, eating seafood, and watching the mesmerising ritual art of Theyyam—dancers in vivid costumes, transforming into living gods through fire, drums, and movement.
Storms, Rickshaws & Banana Fritters
One evening, a massive storm rolled in. Thunder, lightning, rain hitting the earth in sheets. I was in a rickshaw trying to reach the train station, the driver flicking on his disco fairy lights to see the road because the rain was so heavy. Water was pouring in, potholes everywhere, visibility zero—and we were laughing the whole way. Somehow, we made it.
Another sleeper train took me to Varkala, where I checked into a cliff-side guesthouse. There, “Mummy Bamboo” taught me how to make fish curry, coconut-rich and unforgettable.
Backwaters of Alleppey
I continued on to the Alleppey backwaters, gliding down narrow canals in a canoe through Kynakari village. People bathed, washed clothes, and cleaned pots right in the river. Everything happened in the water. Life felt slow, honest, and deeply connected to the land.
Fort Kochi & History Lessons
From Ernakulam Junction, I explored Fort Kochi, wandered through Jew Town, and visited the Dutch Palace, soaking in the layered history of traders, colonisers, and communities who shaped the region.
Telangana: Conferences & Connections
From Kochi, multiple delayed flights finally delivered me to Hyderabad, where I attended the IDA Conference on Nutrition at the National Institute of Nutrition. Surrounded by Indian dietitians, I learned so much—and gained a new appreciation for how nutrition science adapts across cultures.
A Final Surprise in Delhi & The Next Adventure Begins
Back in Delhi for my final night, I discovered my pre-booked hotel was basically a room in the middle of a construction site—noise, dust, and chaos. I left immediately and found a hostel instead.
The next morning, I caught a flight to Nairobi to begin a whole new adventure through Kenya and Tanzania… but that’s a story for another time.
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