Thirteen years after my first solo adventure across India, I returned—married, with two children aged eight and ten, and a whole new way of seeing the world. What followed was a whirlwind journey through Delhi, Rajasthan, and Uttar Pradesh, filled with tuk-tuks, temples, safaris, cancelled flights, unexpected birthdays, and more than a few chaotic moments.
Delhi: Tuk-Tuks, Temples & Street Adventures
Delhi hit us with its usual mixture of noise, colour, and life.
The kids were instantly fascinated by the street dogs, cows, and monkeys wandering freely—the unofficial city mascots of India.
We bounced around in tuk-tuks, squeezed ourselves onto the Delhi metro (a skill in itself), and explored landmarks including the Red Fort, Isa Khan’s Tomb, and the beautiful Humayun’s Tomb.
One of the biggest surprises was how much the kids loved the Delhi Crafts Museum. Armed with audioguides, they wandered from exhibit to exhibit like miniature historians.
Christmas Eve on the Sleeper Train to Udaipur
The most magical moment?
Christmas Eve spent on the Mewar Express overnight train.
Finding the platform at Hazrat Nizamuddin Station was an adventure in itself. After weaving through crowds, luggage, announcements, and near-misses, we finally found Coach H1.
We set up fairy lights in our cabin, hung Christmas stockings, and settled in as the train rattled through the night. It felt like a scene from a storybook—Christmas on wheels, India-style.
Udaipur: Rooftops, Writing & a Palace That Never Ends
We arrived in Udaipur at sunrise and immediately climbed to our guesthouse rooftop for breakfast overlooking the lakes and palaces. My daughter became completely inspired—scribbling stories, journaling, and creating worlds in her notebook.
Exploring Udaipur City Palace was like entering a labyrinth—beautiful but huge, crowded, and almost entirely one-way. The kids were amazed; we were exhausted.
Disaster in the Fog: A Cancelled Flight & a Birthday Surprise
On the day of the full moon, our flight to Jaipur was cancelled due to fog.
We had no refund, no help, nowhere to go.
After scrambling online and making frantic phone calls, we ended up in a taxi to a lake-side resort in the countryside. It turned out to be unexpectedly lovely.
It was also Jonny’s birthday, and to our complete surprise, the chef baked a cake and delivered it to our room at 11:30 p.m.—a quiet, sweet moment after a day of total chaos.
Ranthambore: Freezing Safaris & Rare Tigers
From there we headed to Ranthambore National Park and checked into a mud cottage. The romantic idea of a cottage evaporated instantly when we realised:
We didn’t pack coats.
It was freezing.
We climbed into open-air canter vehicles, our teeth chattering as we bumped through the forest. The first safari revealed deer, stags, monkeys, wild boar, and bold treepie birds who loved landing on the trucks.
But no tigers.
Only a 20% chance of spotting one in winter.
Safari 2: Mala Appears
On our second safari, the forest suddenly fell silent—then birds began calling warnings. Moments later, a tigress emerged from the trees.
Her name was Mala.
She was powerful, calm, and breathtakingly close.
A sight we’ll never forget.
Safari 3: Against All Odds
We went again, hoping for more luck.
And unbelievably, we saw another tiger—a male named Siddhi.
Twice in two days. Almost unheard of.
New Year’s Eve: India Knows How to Party
Our resort hosted a huge New Year’s Eve gala:
music, lights, dancing, an enormous disco tent, and endless food.
Dinner didn’t come out until 10 p.m., but when it finally did, it was worth the wait. The kids danced, we celebrated, and it felt like the perfect finale to the Rajasthan chapter of our trip.
Agra: A 9-Hour Taxi Ride & an Unexpected Explosion
The drive to Agra took nine long, delay-filled hours.
Half an hour from the hotel, just when we thought we’d made it, my son suddenly became travel sick and vomited all over the taxi.
An unforgettable moment—for everyone.
The next day we visited the Taj Mahal (my daughter was bored within minutes, naturally) and explored Agra Fort before wrapping up our journey.
Returning Home With New Memories
Returning to India as a family was nothing like my first solo trip.
It was louder, funnier, more chaotic—and infinitely more heartwarming.
Thirteen years later, the country felt both familiar and completely new.
And seeing it through the eyes of my children made it even more magical.
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